What is a tie?
Caulking is one of the most important measures to protect ceramic, tile, and brick buildings. Bricks provide a durable covering for interior and exterior walls, chimneys, and fireplaces; however, the mortar used to fill the joints deteriorates over time. This can happen even when the bricks themselves are still in good shape. In such a case, caulking comes into play.
Used to enhance the appearance of tile, ceramic, or brick masonry, grouting involves removing a portion of the damaged mortar, filling the joints with new mortar (that exactly matches the color of the brick), and then applying a thin line of contrasting-colored putty down the side. This style of grouting gives the joints a nice, slim look. Although it can be used on any type of brick construction, it is most commonly found on historic brick homes where owners want the joints between the tiles to recreate the thin look of the original home.
If you are interested in protecting your worn bricks from mortar wear and tear while also looking to give them a new look, continue reading to learn the necessary knowledge about grouting and its proper application tips.
Technical terms for a better understanding of tying
To better understand the jointing process, it helps to learn the following masonry terminology:
- Caulking: The process of filling mortar joints during new construction. It also refers to the actual mortar joints – or spaces between bricks – in a finished wall.
- Grouting: The process of removing old mortar from joints and replacing it with new mortar.
- Caulking: The process of removing old mortar from the joints, replacing it with mortar that matches the color of the bricks, and then embedding thin lines of contrasting-colored putty (called fillets) in the center of the new mortar.
While the terms “sanding” and “sanding” are often used interchangeably, the end product of the two processes is aesthetically different. Both processes involve removing and replacing worn-out mortar with fresh mortar, but sanding does not include the additional step of applying contrasting lines in the center of the joints.
Visual features of tying
Some people choose to use fillets because they create a sharper visual contrast. This is because the mortar matches the color of the brick. In fact, there is no way to tell where the mortar ends and the brick begins without examining the wall closely. In fact, fillets can be so optically deceptive that the brain thinks perfectly straight lines are actual mortar joints. This makes the entire wall look as if it has been built with new masonry. On the other hand, fillets create a soft, wavy look to the new mortar joints, making the sharp edges of the bricks appear to be slightly curved. Additionally, using pointed mortar can create an interesting contrast in appearance.
What should we do before repairing mortar?
Before repairing mortar, it is best to thoroughly investigate the cause of the mortar joints failure. Mortar joint deterioration can have a variety of causes, including: faulty workmanship, erosion from extreme temperatures and humidity, and pressure from the heavy weight of bricks. While bricks often last for about a century, mortar typically has a lifespan of 25 to 30 years, meaning that mortar will usually need to be replaced or renovated more than once during the life of a brick building.
Cracks between the seams
Since mortar joints are the weakest part of a brick wall, it is common to see cracks between the joints, even if the bricks themselves remain intact. A few hairline cracks do not necessarily indicate the need for patching or patching, but when mortar begins to crumble and fall through the cracks, it should be repaired before the mortar collapses further into the wall’s structure. Additionally, if damaged mortar is not repaired, it can eventually cause the wall or chimney to collapse.
Does the strapping process require specialized skills?
Although people can do the jointing themselves, it is best to leave it to a professional. The compression method requires extreme precision to create the visual illusion of the mortar joints being level. If the fillets used to create the final joint are even slightly off, the entire project will look sloppy.
Professional tying
Professional grouting typically costs around 60,000 Tomans per square meter. If you decide to do the process yourself, the costs will be significantly reduced. The materials needed for grouting, including mortar and lime putty, cost less than 20,000 Tomans per square meter. You can also rent the necessary tools for around 200,000 Tomans per day.
Re-tying
If you need to replace entire bricks, reinstallation and caulking should be left to the professionals, especially when working with exterior brick walls that are often load-bearing. Installing or re-aligning new bricks is a more complex process than caulking and caulking on a structurally sound wall or chimney.
The strapping process
Whether you decide to do it yourself or hire a professional, the steps involved in lacing are as follows.
- Surface preparation: First, thoroughly clean the surface of the tiles so that no dust or debris remains. This will allow the grout to adhere well to the surface.
- Choosing the right grout: Choose the grout based on the type of tile and environmental conditions. Waterproof grouts are suitable for wet environments such as bathrooms and kitchens.
- Mixing the mortar: Mix the jointing mortar according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Use an electric mixer to achieve a uniform, lump-free mixture.
- Apply the mortar: Apply the mortar to the joints between the tiles using a trowel or special tool. Make sure that all joints are completely filled.
- Cleaning up excess: After applying the grout, wipe off excess grout from the surface of the tiles with a damp sponge. Do this before the grout dries completely to keep the surface of the tiles clean and smooth.
- Drying the mortar: Allow the mortar to dry for the specified time specified in the manufacturer’s instructions. Avoid traffic on the grouted surface during this time.
- Final Sealing: After the mortar has completely dried, apply a sealant for additional moisture protection. This will extend the life of the grout and prevent water infiltration.